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Ten Things To Do When Searching For A Used 4-Cylinder Volvo
Buying a used Volvo can be a successful and satisfying experience
if you are armed with enough knowledge to determine whether the asking
price on a particular Volvo is a good deal. You want to avoid getting
stuck with someone else's problems and discover too late that the
purchase price is only the "tip of the iceberg", when you find that
your "new" car needs $2000.00 worth of repair and maintenance to make
it safe and reliable transportation.
1. When you are talking with a seller, ask about the Volvo's current
condition. Specifically, if there is anything that needs repair or
is not working properly. Pay particular attention when he or she answers
the following question: Have you maintained the car well? If the answer
is "Yep, I've changed the oil every 3,000 miles" or "It's been a great
car, I haven't had to spend a dime on this car", BEWARE! This throws
up a red flag. Do not buy this car without having a Volvo Specialist
carefully inspect it before purchase. Changing the oil regularly does
not in itself constitute good maintenance on a Volvo.
2. Try to start the engine cold. There should be no sputtering or
hesitation. Pay particular attention to knocking or tapping noises
coming from within the engine, if you hear these, look for the condition
mentioned in #6.
3. When raising the hood, look for obvious oil leaks on the engine,
particularly fresh oily and greasy deposits on the valve cover around
the oil filler cap and on the top surfaces of the water pump. If you
see these present, this indicates the flame trap system has not been
serviced frequently enough to prevent clogging of the system. This
is easily the most commonly overlooked single service item that we
see. When a quick oil change facility changes your oil, they don't
know to check the condition of the flame trap and consequently it
eventually becomes clogged thereby pressurizing the crankcase and
either blowing front and rear seals completely out or wearing them
out prematurely. This situation can be corrected, but ill probably
cost in the $500.00 ballpark.
4. While the hood is up on 240 models in particular, check the condition
of the engine wiring harness where it plugs into the car harness (a
gray plastic rectangular wiring connector located between the engine
and the firewall. If you see severe insulation deterioration and bare
wires within 2" of this connector be aware that sometime soon (2 weeks
to 2 years) you will have to replace this harness at a cost of approximately
$800.00. We see this problem most frequently on Volvos 10 years old
or older.
5. Check the radiator end tanks, if they are plastic chances are this
is the original radiator and will probably fail while you own the
car. Metal tanks would indicate the radiator has been replaced, probably
a plus for this car.
6. Look at the condition of the paint on the engine block and on the
intake side of the engine. If you see burned paint flaking off, this
engine has been severely overheated and it's life span has been shortened
considerably. Walk away and don't look back.
7. Get down on your hands and knees and look at the condition of the
floor pans under and to the rear of the front two seats. A small amount
of corrosion you can live with. Severe rust damage is a deal killer
(repair cost approximately $2000.00+) and can be a structural problem
in extreme cases. While you are on your knees look at the point where
the transmission bolts to the rear of the engine block. If you see
fresh oil drips forming or a small puddle on the ground, this indicates
a rear engine main seal leak and possibly other leaks.
8. Check for paintwork and previous accident damage. In front, check
to see whether paint is chipped off of the bolts and washers attaching
the front fenders to the body and hood to the hood hinges. In the
rear open the trunk and look at the rearmost upper corners of the
rear quarter panels next to the trunk lid, you should clearly see
a half-moon shaped factory seam in this area. Its absence signals
the presence of bondo filler and indicates the car has probably had
significant rear body damage.
9. Test drive the car. It should accelerate and stop smoothly. The
presence of a pulsation felt in the steering wheel or through the
seat while braking indicates brake rotor warpage. While cruising at
freeway speeds, press the button on the shift knob to disengage the
transmission overdrive. Press the button again to re-engage overdrive;
this should occur without lengthy delay.
10. Once the Volvo has passed all of these inspections, schedule a
time to have a detailed pre-buy inspection performed by a Volvo Specialist.
All Volvos need at least some repair and it is not unusual to see
a $500.00 list on a well-maintained car. You want to avoid the car
with a $2,500.00 list as this indicates a history of neglect and a
poor life expectancy for the car. There you have it, 10 steps to help
you select a good used Volvo. I personally go through all of these
steps and more when evaluating a potential purchase for our inventory
and it will help you weed out the good from the bad and the "don't
waste your time" cars you are likely to run into.
Thanks, Jon K. Howes
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